When shopping for a men's watch, you want to find something that complements your personal style, won't drain your bank account, and is durable enough to withstand daily wear. Knowing the different types of watches can help you determine which one is the best fit for you, both aesthetically and financially. Chronographs are a popular choice, but not everyone uses their signature function. On the other hand, you don't have to be a sailor to appreciate the features of a diving watch.
Here is a comprehensive guide to the different types of watches and styles that you may encounter, along with some classic examples of each.
DIVING WATCHES:
Debuted in 1926 with the Rolex Oyster, diving watches were designed for underwater use. According to the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), a diving watch must have a unidirectional bezel, clearly distinguishable minute markings, visibility in total darkness at 25cm, and a luminous second hand to ensure the watch is still running. It must also be resistant to chemicals, shocks, and magnetism and have a strap that won't fall off in deep water. The minimum depth rating is 100m, but if you plan to dive, you need a watch with a 200m or greater rating. Although divers these days typically use computers, diving watches continue to be popular for their rugged, masculine appeal and classic luxury designs.
How to wear: You can wear a diving watch with a dinner suit, thanks to James Bond, but avoid a rubber strap. It's more suitable for a casual weekend look.
MILITARY WATCHES:
The definition of a military watch is somewhat controversial. Some people believe that a watch can only be considered military if it was issued to a country's armed forces or worn by military personnel. Others have a more relaxed definition and include any watch that is utilitarian, solid, and not flashy. This category encompasses diving watches, pilot's watches, and field watches. A mechanical movement is preferred for military watches as there is no risk of a dead battery. The best way to describe a military watch is that it must be able to withstand extreme conditions and rough handling. Smartwatches are not considered military watches.
How to wear: Military watches are best paired with rugged menswear, like Japanese denim or combat pants. Leave it at home when you wear a suit.
CHRONOGRAPH WATCHES:
A chronograph watch is one of the most complicated complications to make, but is often not used to its full potential. Nevertheless, chronographs are popular due to their sophisticated appearance. At its simplest, a chronograph is a watch with a timing function. It can be modular or integrated, and the pusher can be column-wheel or cam-actuated. The second hand can be flyback, which resets without stopping the chronograph, or split-seconds, which can time two things that start together but end differently. Chronographs have a rich history in aviation, cars, and space travel, and have been worn by famous men, such as Paul Newman and his Rolex Daytona, Steve McQueen and his TAG Heuer Monaco, and the Apollo 11 and 13 crews and their Omega Speedmasters.
How to wear: A chronograph watch is versatile and can be worn with a variety of outfits. It's a great choice for both casual and formal occasions.
DRESS WATCHES:
When it comes to dress watches, simplicity, elegance, and timelessness are key. As the name suggests, a dress watch is meant to accompany a suit, whether it be for a dinner or a business meeting. It should be slim and subtle, avoiding chunkiness or over-sized features. The classic dress watch is time-only, but a small seconds sub-dial or a date window are acceptable. When investing in a dress watch, consider spending as much as you can, as you'll likely only need one that will last a lifetime. Opt for precious metals instead of steel if your budget allows, and be sure to choose a leather strap, as bracelets may look out of place. When not wearing a suit, it's best to retire the dress watch to avoid scratches.
How to wear it: With dressed-up tailoring, of course.
MULTIPLE TIME ZONE WATCHES:
When it comes to multiple time zones, there are several options to choose from: dual time, GMT, or world timer. Dual time watches show the time in two places on a main dial and a sub-dial. GMT watches, introduced by Rolex in 1954, use a 24-hour scale to track a second time zone indicated by a center-mounted hand. World timers, on the other hand, have every one of the 24 (or even 37) time zones accounted for. The first modern world time was developed by Genevan watchmaker Louis Cottier, and his design has remained largely unchanged for nearly 50 years. Vacheron Constantin was the first brand to create a watch with all 37 time zones in 2011.
How to wear it: These watches come in a variety of styles, from sporty to elegant, so you're sure to find one that fits into your existing wardrobe.
AVIATION WATCHES:
The first-ever pilot watch was the Santos, created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his aviator friend, Albert Santos-Dumont. However, it was the military, particularly the French Aéronavale, the British Ministry of Defence, the German Luftwaffe, and the Italian Aeronautica Militare, that had the greatest influence on the design of the pilot watch as we know it today. They demanded large, easy-to-read timekeepers with oversized crowns and fluted bezels that could be manipulated while wearing gloves in a cramped cockpit. Key features of the aviation watch today include large size, legible luminescent numerals, oversized crowns, and often a chronograph function. Breitling, a favorite of RAF pilots, went a step further by adding a slide rule bezel for in-flight calculations.
How to wear it: This style of watch is only suitable for casual wear, as it does not go well with a suit.
SMART WATCHES:
The question of whether a smartwatch is a real watch or a wearable computer that just looks like one remains unanswered. However, smartwatches typically have a touch-screen "dial", connect to your phone, track your health, and have apps for navigation, golf swing monitoring, recipe suggestions, food ordering, language translation, and more. The two main operating systems for smartwatches are Apple's and Google's Wear OS, with Samsung also having its own proprietary system for its Galaxy line. There are also hybrid smartwatches that look like traditional watches but have limited smart capabilities, such as heart rate tracking, sleep monitoring, and notification alerts.
How to wear it: Smartwatches do not typically look good with a suit, so it's best to save them for weekend wear or workouts. Jobs that allow for casual
